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DEEP SEEK · VOLUME 02 深入澎湖 · 第二回

The forgotten island Dongi 被時間遺忘的小島東吉

Once known as the “Little Shanghai” of the Penghu Islands, Dongji has traded its bustling past for something far more precious—a peaceful island where time slows down, the sea takes center stage, and every visit feels like a chance to recharge. 這是一個被遺忘曾經繁華一時的“小上海”,如今褪去喧囂,在海風與時光中被重拾,成為一座適合放慢腳步、重新充電的小島。

Dongji Island, Southern Penghu Marine National Park 南方四島國家公園-東吉

Once a thriving fishing and trading hub known as the "Little Shanghai of Southern Penghu," Dongji was home to nearly 3,000 residents in the 1950s despite covering just 1.77 km². Today, its abandoned houses and quiet streets still echo the island's prosperous past. As industries changed and people moved away, Dongji faded into obscurity. It wasn't until 2014, with the establishment of South Penghu Marine National Park, that the island began to be rediscovered. Today, Dongji is celebrated for one of Taiwan's best-preserved coral reef ecosystems, rich history, and untouched beauty. Stay for a night, slow down, and experience the island beyond a simple day trip. 東吉曾因海上貿易與遠洋漁業樞紐而成為繁榮一時的"南方小上海",大約在1950年代全盛時期在小小的島(1.77平方公里,2.5個大安森林公園),便容納了3000人的居民,從現在村子遺留下來洋樓不難看出曾經機能完善繁榮熱鬧的影子。隨著產業發展變化和人口外移,東吉漸漸的消失在大眾視野之中,一度常駐人口不滿10人,成為接近無人島的荒島。直到2014年隨著南方四島國家公園的成立,這個被遺忘的孤島才漸漸的被拉回大眾的視野,重新與大家見面的東吉,變成了一個生態豐富、充滿故事、與世獨立的秘境,擁有台灣最完整、保存最良好的珊瑚礁生態系之一,來到這裡留宿一宿好好認識這個小島的美麗與故事是最好的行程安排

Stay over at Dongji 夜宿東吉

the getaway trip 兩天一夜的出逃

Day1 6:30AM

Departure 出航

Pack a small overnight bag and your favorite snorkeling gear, then set off for Dongji. Most visitors can choose between the regular ferry departing from Nanhai Wharf at around 9:20 a.m. or an earlier sightseeing boat. Along the way, enjoy a relaxed cruise with opportunities to fish while taking in the spectacular scenery of Tongpan, Wang'an, Jiangjun, Dongyuping, Xiyuping, and the famous Blue Cave of Xiji, before finally arriving at today's destination — Dongji Island 帶上一晚的換洗衣物和下水的裝備,我們登上包船準備出發前往東吉(一般可以選擇南海碼頭9:20的交通船或是更早一點的觀光船),一路輕鬆釣魚順便海上巡禮,欣賞桶盤、望安、將軍、東嶼坪、西嶼坪、西吉藍洞,來到了今天的目的地- 東吉(一般直航約2小時)

Day 1 2:00PM

Landing on Dongji 登陸東吉

The moment you step ashore, Dongji feels untouched by time. Crystal-clear water reveals the seabed beneath the harbor, while a small village quietly surrounds the island's only temple. There are no busy streets or shopping districts—only a handful of anglers and island residents going about their day. After dropping off our bags at **Dongji's Home**, we grabbed our snorkeling gear, hopped on our scooters, and headed toward the island's rugged back hills. Our destination: **Lavender Forest**. Following overgrown trails and passing abandoned graves hidden among the tall grass, we finally reached the dive site, where the real adventure was about to begin. 一登島,就感覺到一個原始且自然的氣氛,港口的海水直透底部,挨著港口的小村子圍繞著唯一的一座廟宇而建,沒有商業活動、沒有商店、只有零星的釣客和島民自顧的做著自己的事,我們趕緊將行李放下到下榻處-東吉的家,就帶上潛水裝備跳上摩托車往後山騎去,目標:薰衣草森林。經過雜草叢生的和散佈荒墓小路,披荊斬棘的來到潛點。

— EXPERIENCE LOGISTICS — 體驗資訊

Duration 時長
2 days 1 night 兩天一夜
Cost 費用
$2,000~$3,000 (boat, stay, meal) 約$2,500+ (食、住、行)
Bring 攜帶
Clothes, snack, diving equipment 更換衣物、零食、玩水裝備
Note 備註
Trips are subject to weather and sea conditions. Highly recommend to stay over for a night. 航程依氣候海象可能有所調整(推薦住宿一晚)

Arrange before booking your stay — guided by ShiLi No.89. 入住前先安排 —— 由蒔之八九引路。

Day 1 3:30PM

The Purple Coral Garden 薰衣草森林

To escape the midday sun, we slipped into the cool, crystal-clear water. Below us, endless fields of blue and purple soft corals swayed with the current, living up to the name **Lavender Forest**. Surrounded by colorful reef fish, sea stars, cuttlefish, moray eels, and countless other marine creatures, every dive felt like discovering a hidden treasure. As part of a protected marine reserve, Dongji's underwater world is remarkably rich and vibrant. Nearly two hours passed before we reluctantly returned to shore. As the sun began to set, we hopped back on our scooters and continued exploring the island. 為躲避毒辣的太陽,我們立馬跳下水,凊涼的海水瞬間滲入每一寸肌膚,隨之出現的是美不勝收填滿畫面的藍紫色珊瑚礁,不愧對森林之稱,伴隨各式悠遊其中的魚類,以及豐富的海洋生物、藍色海星、烏賊、錢鰻,就像一個大型巡寶箱,偶爾竄出的大魚惹的我們陣陣驚呼,做為海洋保育區,這裡的生物豐富性和多樣性還是非常的令人驚艷,在海裡游玩了近兩小時,李力耗盡的我們才不捨的離開,這時天色剛好漸漸近黃昏,我們騎上機車開始環島。

Day 1 5:30PM

Exploring the Island 環島巡禮

Evening is when Dongji is at its most beautiful. We cruised along the island road, passing free-roaming goats, hidden historical sites, the weather station, and Dongji Lighthouse as the golden sunset bathed the island. In that moment, the noise of everyday life simply faded away. Time no longer felt measured by the clock, but by the rhythm of the sea and the changing light. After the stars filled the night sky, we slowly returned to Dongji's Home, where a generous seafood dinner became the perfect ending to an unforgettable day. 傍晚的東吉是最迷人的,悠閒的在環島公路騎行,看著野放的羊群自在的穿梭在草地,伴隨著金色夕照灑落的岬灣,微風輕拂,我們探尋島中間的墜機殘骸秘密景點、走到公路盡頭的日本兵舍遺址、在氣象台居高臨下看著東吉港和村落、來到東吉燈塔看著夕陽在海上落下,在這一刻,所有的喧囂和煩惱似乎都消失了,時間彷彿只是單純的緩慢流淌而不是被我們量化計算著刻度,一直到天色黑去星斗滿罩我們才緩緩地回到民宿,而東吉的家在荒島上所提供的豐盛海鮮大餐又是另一個驚喜了

Day 2 6:00AM

Morning in Dongji 早晨的東吉

We woke to the gentle glow of the rising sun and climbed to one of the island's highest points. If yesterday's sunset was a well-earned reward, the soft morning light and sea breeze felt like the island's quiet gift to a new day. After breakfast at Dongji's Home, we took one last swim in the crystal-clear harbor, where fragments of old pottery beneath the water quietly echoed the island's rich past. Around noon, we boarded the ferry back to Magong. As Dongji slowly disappeared into the horizon, it had already become the most unforgettable part of our journey. 清晨醒來,朝陽已悄悄升起。趁著晨光仍然溫柔,我們徒步走上島上的高處。清晨的東吉,有著與昨晚截然不同的氣息。如果說昨日的夕陽,是一天辛勞的安慰與犒賞,那晨曦得味道與顏色,就是島嶼送給旅人的第一份注入活力的禮物。緩緩走回民宿,享用一頓在這座偏遠島嶼格外珍貴的早餐。等待返航的空檔,我們再次跳進港邊清澈的淺灘,冰涼的海水帶來最後一次擁抱。海底散落著陶瓷磚瓦的碎片,彷彿仍默默訴說著東吉曾經繁華的歲月。約莫中午,我們帶著滿足的心情登上返回馬公的船,繼續下一段旅程,而東吉,也悄悄成了這趟旅行最難忘的一頁。

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